Note: This is purely a work of fiction. I've written this long before I actually tried riding some easy waves back there in La Union... I also remember that surfing was the last thing on my mind while working on this.
I fell in love with the ocean from the moment I've heard of it. But it was similar to getting to know a person. It was a learning process. Before, I used to be doing fine with just swimming along the coast for it was easy and safe, but later on, I decided to take it a notch higher. I'd learn to surf.
I knew then that it would be difficult for me just by the way it looked. But on the day I started, everything was perfect! It was as smooth as silk. The waves were calm, the breeze was blowing gently, the sun was shining brightly. In short - perfect. Little by little, I started gaining confidence. I even thought it would always be like that. I had no idea it was nothing but beginner's luck.
Sometimes, I could surf without any obstacles at all. In those times, I'd think I was born for the job. There were some occasions when a wave or two knocked me off, but it's okay, nothing's perfect.
Suddenly, on one of my sessions, a giant wave engulfed me. It was much beyond my expectations. I didn't know it was coming. I was kind of expecting it already but it hit me real hard and brought me ashore. I was stupefied beyond my wits.
I was scared for the longest time that I swore not to step on my board again. But my love for the sea overcame my fear. Yes, my fear was still weighing on me, but I wasn't the type to easily give up so I decided to give it another shot. Anyway, they said that what didn't kill you made you stronger, right?
I was hesitant when I put my feet on the board again. But the ocean welcomed me with such tempting delight. So slowly and carefully, I made my way through. I tried paying attention to everything so as not to make the same mistake again. My confidence started to trickle in. I thought that maybe this time, I finally got everything under control.
I was still recuperating from the previous incident when as if on cue, a big wave came up and pummeled me with such a force, it disoriented me for a while. My previous wound was still fresh but now I was left with more bruises than I could handle. I was despondent.
Would I ever learn to ride those waves? Should I accept them as part of what I wanted to become, or was it really not for me?
Bet you can tell.
September 3, 2008
1:47 pm
Fam Mam
